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Surprising Berlin

We’re back from our trip to Germany so I thought I’d share some photos and thoughts. I never thought I’d go to Berlin, but Mandi got tricked into doing a school project there, so I tagged along for the second week of her stay. I very nearly decided to not go, but I found some super inexpensive tickets so really had no excuse.

Our friend Silke, who stayed with Mandi’s parents as an exchange student a few years ago, came from Aachen (in Northwestern Germany) to meet us with her baby boy Loris for a couple of days. She took us on a walking tour, helping us find the Wall remnant below. You see more of the Wall in little baggies in tourist shops now – there’s only a little bit left standing due to peoples’ insatiable appetite for little pieces of it. There also doesn’t seem to be much interest in preserving any parts of it. There’s supposed to be a decent stretch somewhere around, but I didn’t make it there (or it’s been torn down and replaced with some apartments).

Silke Loris and Mandi Chunk of Wall in Berlin

The Reichstag is like our Capitol building, housing the German legislature. To me, it’s interesting because it’s been rebuilt a couple of times. For its latest reincarnation, the Germans decided to create a blend of new and old – sort of a metaphor for both Berlin and Germany. The dome is a beautiful glass structure a little like the pyramid at the Louvre, except that it’s got spiral ramps for tourists to climb for a view of Berlin. There’s apparently always a long line to get in, but I was lucky to have Silke and Loris for tour guides – folks with strollers go through a special entrance and jump to the head of the line.

Reichstag at night Brandenberg Gate

There are construction cranes all over Berlin. A big wave of construction happened just after reunification, followed by a bit of a bust. The Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz is an example from that era – huge, modern and shiny, but not very successful. I think the problem is that there’s so much ‘empty’ land around that it’s too easy to build new rather than use the existing stuff. Hence all the cranes. There are also a lot of old museums, churches, and such around and they’re pretty much constantly getting rehabilitated. Pretty much every time I visit a European city there’s one sight on my to-do list that’s obscured by scaffolding or just plain closed.

Sony Center The River Spree and a crane 3

On our last full day in Berlin we tried to fit in a few sights we’d missed earlier. So, we headed for Karl Marx Allee, a wide boulevard suitable for Soviet-style marches and whatnot. It’s mostly lined with long, blocky apartment buildings. Not the tilt-up super ugly ones, just so long they prevent any connection behind the street and the neighborhood beyond. I guess the idea is that you can hang out your apartment window and cheer for the parade or something. It was deserted when we walked it, a bit like a Stalinist ghost town, but it was Saturday – maybe on weekdays it’s busier. Contrast Karl Marx Allee with Unter den Linden, the main tourist boulevard leading up to Brandenberg Gate. It was also part of the East, but with tons of historical sites and museums it’s now bustling, sorta like Champs Elysee in Paris.

Mandi along Karl Marx Allee Along Unter den Linden

I think part of what makes Berlin interesting to visit is the immediacy of history there. I remember the 1980s and the Cold War. There were a lot of Russian tourists in Berlin too – I wonder what they’re thinking about? To me, Berlin is about the same as Paris or London for general touristic entertainment, but it also has this undercurrent of recent historic flux that makes it especially interesting. I uploaded a few more photos than I’ve included here.

5 responses to “Surprising Berlin”

  • isaac. wow! that’s a helluva post…definitely worth waiting for. i’m about to head out for a three hour midday meeting, and lots of little stuff bookkending that. so…”wow!” will have to suffice for now, but looking forward to reading your post more thoughtfully later…some great observations and perspectives in there. also, i was really surprised not to see any snow in the pics…seemed like the temps were somewhat alaska-like when i checked it, but maybe that was an anomaly. anyhow, great post, terrific pics…welcome back! l,jack

  • Hi Isaac, glad you got to go over there and keep Mandi company. Really enjoyed your dissertation on your trip.

    I got a terrible cold thing also, am finally recovering. Talk to you soon!

  • debra…jake has that cold, too. we kept him home from school yesterday, and he NEVER misses school. the good news (if you have the same strain) is that he’s doing much better today. l,j

  • Hey Isaac:
    So good to see pics of Mandi in her element and our friend Silke. Pretty cool to hear that Loris got you a pass through the line. See, there ARE perks to having kids! Glad to hear you and Mandi are home and safe. GREAT post. We are watching Al Gore’s “Inconvenient Truth” tonight in preps for my first meeting of the Homer City Council’s Global Warming Task Force….I got myself appointed, now I gotta bone up! All for now. Big news here is that the anchor winch that is installed on the port side of the bow of the Julia Lynn is now full of 600 feet of line and ready to be deployed. Guess I can do this into my seventies now! Take care. Love, Dad

  • What a cool trip! It sounds like an interesting city to visit.

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